Helgoland Diaries

Week 1 - 27th May - 1st June, 2008

The early morning regional express conveyed my colleague, RC, and I northwards through the brooding farmlands of Lower Saxony and finally to the port town of Cuxhaven. An invigorating and somewhat briny wind from the North Sea met us as we set off to the harbour from the humble town station, dragging and hauling our ample luggage. Fisher-folk and port staff, no doubt up with the light itself, were about their business as inns and taverns whose wooden facades were worn by decades of salty air slowly opened for the day. 

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It seems that the trusty Helgoland ferry - the Atlantis - now departs from a different harbour than it did in previous years. Casually assuming no such change had occurred left RC and myself dashing across jetties and coastal scrub land with all our assembled baggage to the far side of the harbours with mere minutes until departure. We did manage to board on time and amuse a fair number of town-folk and sailors in the process. The trip was quiet and most revealing regarding the habits of Moomintrolls. When at last we did arrive at the island, several small motor-boats met the ferry just outside the harbour near the Biologische Anstalt Helgoland and all passengers were sped to the piers after being man-handled aboard. Quite fun, and certainly not a feature of my last trip.

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The first few days of research at the BAH proceeded well. It seems that PCR will never release its grip upon my exploits in the lab. I've realised that I've been fingerprinting this or that in some form or other for all 3 of my projects. Alas! There will be opportunities to vary the menu ahead, I'm sure. Something to do with an entire microbe even! RC seems to be having quite a good time - exploring algae in the treacherous inter-tidal zones under the crumbling cliffs of the island. In the meantime, we've stocked up on supplies from the local Spar and are marking our territory in the communal kitchen of the research station's guest house with permanent markers and labelling stickers courtesy of the Max Planck back in Bremen. We've both had time to wander the island, enjoy the crisp sea air laced with floral sub-tones and sample the local fare; it seems quite unlikely that isolation will be much of an issue. Let us hope!